JOURNAL

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More than a meal

Restaurants worth planning a trip around

Most of the time, dining out is not an end in itself. Whether to satisfy hunger, catch up with a friend, or close a business deal, restaurants often serve as a backdrop to your life’s story unfolding, fulfilling basic needs rather than demanding undivided attention. But some restaurants defy this notion. These are not places to simply stop by on the way home from the theater — they are the experience, in no way inferior than the most sophisticated theater play, a true work of art in its own right. Such restaurants are destinations unto themselves, compelling enough to inspire a journey and redefine the way we experience food.

Alchemist, Copenhagen, Denmark

As the restaurant’s team say, Alchemist might not be the right choice for business discussions or first dates – dining at the restaurant is a theatrical experience that demands full focus and attention. The experience is divided into several ‘acts’ guiding guests through diverse forms of art and various locations, including a famous planetarium-like dome where images are projected onto the ceiling. The tasting menu consists of 50 courses, or ‘impressions’ as chef-owner Rasmus Munk calls them, and the dinner lasts for up to 6 hours. Gastronomy becomes a form of contemporary art, many of the courses commenting on political, societal and environmental issues, such as plastic pollution, food waste and blood donor shortages. Just as ancient alchemists sought to merge philosophy, natural science, religion, and the arts to unveil a new perspective on the world, Munk’s Alchemist aims to expand our understanding of the concept of dining.

Attica, Melbourne, Australia

An Australian restaurant, both in location and in spirit, it was opened by an emergency doctor and his wife in a converted suburban bank building. After two chefs failed to attract a steady clientele, the founders employed Ben Shewry, granting him full creative control over the menu. His vision transformed the place, eventually leading the couple to sell the restaurant to him.

Ben Shewry was an early advocate for native Australian ingredients going beyond their use to seek the knowledge and traditions of the First Nations people who have cultivated and cooked with them for thousands of years. Shewry’s multi-course tasting menu reinterprets native ingredients through the lens of local folklore and personal memories. Featuring bunya nuts, finger limes, and rare herbs — most of which are cultivated at the nearby Rippon Lea Estate — each dish offers a thoughtful exploration of Australia’s heritage creating a meal that alone justifies the journey.

D.O.M., São Paulo, Brazil

Alex Atala, the restaurant’s chef, has received widespread recognition for leading a movement among Brazilian chefs to bring authentic indigenous ingredients into the forefront of mainstream cuisine. The tasting menu takes diners on a sensory journey through the rich flavors of the Amazon, highlighting ingredients rarely seen outside the region. Sourced from small-scale local producers, these unique elements — such as priprioca root, palmetto heart of palm, ants, açaí, jambu, and tucupi — are expertly woven into dishes that surprise with their textures and bold flavors.

Chef Atala developed his cooking skills in Europe, working in some of the most esteemed restaurants. Yet, at a certain point, he had a realization that despite his training in France and Italy, he would never be able to cook these cuisines with the same authenticity as a native chef. But what if he could take Brazilian cuisine to a level no one had before? That is why he decided to develop a culinary identity that combines modern techniques with the deep-rooted traditions and indigenous wisdom of the Amazon.

Atala infuses his dishes with the essence of the jungle, using flavors that tell a story. He recalls a time when a fire devastated much of the forest near his farm. Capturing the scent of fire, he introduced notes of burnt wood into his dishes, recreating the smoky essence of the tropical rainforest on the plate.

Central, Lima, Peru

While Peru’s archaeological treasures, such as Machu Picchu and the Nazca Lines, captivated millions of tourists throughout the 20th century, its rich culinary heritage remained one of South America’s hidden gems. In the past two decades, though, Peru’s cuisine shaped by its vast biodiversity and deep-rooted heritage, has transcended borders, establishing itself as a global phenomenon.

Located in Lima’s vibrant and artistic Barranco district, Central stands as Peru’s most renowned culinary destination and was named The World's Best Restaurant in 2023. The flagship restaurant of Chef Virgilio Martínez, it is a tribute to the country’s breathtaking landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and deep-rooted traditions. The tasting menu at Central takes diners on a journey that celebrates the diversity and altitudinal irregularity of the country, spanning from 20 meters below sea level to 4,100 meters high in the Andes.

For Chef Virgilio Martínez and his team, gastronomy serves as a lens through which to explore and understand Peru’s unique vertical geography. More than just a kitchen, Central functions as both a laboratory for innovation and a repository of stories, preserving the flavors and traditions of small-scale farmers and producers from across Peru.

Room 4 Dessert, Ubud, Bali

Did you save room for dessert? Pastry chef and founder of Room 4 Dessert in Ubud, Will Goldfarb, is deeply convinced that dessert is not just the final chord of a meal but its main theme — worthy of attention in its own right. At his restaurant, pastry takes center stage, showcasing local culture and ingredients in a uniquely expressive way. These ingredients come together to compose an elaborate dessert tasting menu. Its artfully plated courses reflect the chef’s personal inspirations drawn from literature, cinema, and music. The Scarborough Pear dish, for instance, pays tribute to the chef’s 20-year obsession with the classic film The Graduate, which features the lesser-known Simon & Garfunkel song Scarborough Fair.

Considered one of the world’s best pastry chefs, Will Goldfarb has refined his skills in many legendary restaurants, including El Bulli in Spain and Tetsuya’s in Sydney. He challenges traditional approaches to pastry making, denying to rely on pre-packaged chocolate. Using fresh ingredients for desserts is just as essential as in any other dish. Goldfarb says that when it comes to ingredients, Bali is a paradise for a pastry chef. Having fresh cocoa beans, coffee, coconuts, spices, sugar and salt available within an hour of the restaurant gives dishes a freshness that cannot be beaten.

Will Goldfarb’s dedication to sustainability extends far beyond sourcing local ingredients and reducing waste. Having launched an ambitious initiative to cultivate a dense, native forest around Room 4 Dessert, Will and his wife have created not just an aesthetic addition to the restaurant but a flourishing ecosystem supporting biodiversity, capturing carbon, and regulating the urban microclimate.

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